We are still alive and well

   Our Camino experience has been a lot like boot camp up to this point.  The journey to St. Jean Pied de Port, France involved planes, trains and automobiles (a taxi) in that order.  Super sleep deprived, we arrived at our hotel, walked to dinner and off to bed for a 7am European breakfast.
   We proceeded to the pilgrim office where we obtained our "Credenciales del  Peregrino" which proves our passing through various towns on the way to Santiago (our end point).  The Camino is a specific path very well marked with scallop shell signs embedded in the streets, on buildings, on regular street signs, or yellow arrows marking the way.
   We wanted to make our first leg of the journey easy, and stayed at a private albergue (a refuge for pilgrims and others) a bit of the way up the Pyreenes.  We experienced our first "pilgrim" dinner there with about 30 others, some of whom were not pilgrims (a pilgrim is any walker of The Way of St. James no matter what religion, spirituality or lack thereof).  Technically this was a "table d'hote" menu, but was similar to other pilgrim dinners we've had on the way.
   On Friday Sept 6 we walked up and over the Pyreenes into Spain.  Brutal, but beautiful.  A rough breaking in, but one figures that if the climb and descent can be accomplished, anything else along the Camino can be handled. 
   Kathy was opting to start the Camino in Roncesvalles, Spain so we'd miss going over the Pyreenes, but I really wanted to start at the traditional starting point in St. Jean.  We are with Rob and Cindy, who are both accomplished outdoors persons, Rob as strong as can be in spite of poor knees and Cindy who is up to any challenge.
   I was very concerned that Kathy's back wouldn't hold out, but she very wisely had her pack transported over the mountains into Roncesvalles by a service which drives backpacks from place to place.  We were thankful for all the prayers said for our safety.  Kathy's back no longer hurts, but she stubbed her toe badly a couple nights ago climbing some steps in an albergue.  I thought for sure she'd still need her pack transported, but she slung it on her back and was faster than me.  The toe looks very bruised but is functional.  After two days in a row of pack transport, Kathy is hauling it all and walking briskly.   No blisters either at this point.  We're smearing our feet with Vasiline and using duct tape on any hot spots.
   After crossing into Spain, we stayed at the Albergue Roncesvalles, a very modern facility and our first real taste of Camino albergues living.  Men and women all together in cubicles of two with enough privacy, yet one can look over the cubicle walls and see everybody from the waist up.  Lights out at 10pm and lights on at 6am.  Then the rush to get packed up and ready to go.  Rob is ready in a flash, Kathy is efficient, Cindy is slightly slower and I am flummoxed trying to figure things out (where did I put this or that?  I know I packed it!).  It's all on a steep learning curve. 
   Out we went on our 2nd full day of walking.  Seemed real easy compared to the previous day, until the rain began on our descent into Zuburi. Kathy wiped out on the muddy footing, but was unhurt.
   In Zuburi we were greeted with the news that all the albergues were full except the municipal albergue, which had space on the floor.  Yissh!  A real Camino experience.  As we were wondering what to do about sleeping with no mattresses, Rob went out to one of the full albergues and begged for sleeping pads.  His success was evidenced in bringing back three pads.  The man is invaluable!  We stand wondering what the hey, and he quickly plans and performs. Shoulders and hips hurt through the night, but that's part of the Experience.
   Woke up from our night in Hades to rain, and it continued most of the morning.  Stopped for coffee and toast before the days walk, a routine we look forward to and continue.  Spent the night in Arre at the Albergue Hermanos Maristas, a lovely comfortable place located behind the basilica church.

  Kathy and I spoke about how this pilgrimage is supposed to be spiritual, but right now feels like survival training!  Michael, one of the other pilgrims , said that this period is getting rid of "stuff", sort of a purging.  It is said the first week is the hardest: we're glad to be approaching the end of it, and are beginning to get into the rhythm of the Camino experience.

KATHY:  We have met very interesting friendly pilgrims from all over the world: many Austrailians, some Irish, English, Canadians, Spanish, Japanise, Austrian and American.  There is even a 92 year old gentleman named Mike from Florida walking the 500 miles to Santiago--very spry and cute.  He's walked the Appalachian Trail two times and hopes to be the oldest person to walk the Camino.
   We went to the pilgrim Mass in Roncesvalles and received the pilgrim blessing.  All of us were called to the altar and a blessing was said for us.
   We walked through Pamplona today, a very beautiful city, and are staying in Cizur Menor at the Albergue Sanguanista, run by the Knights of St. John of Malta.  Today was a short walking day, so we are able to do the blog.  Otherwise we have been too exhausted at day's end or can't get a wi fi connection.
   Tomorrow will be a brutal day, walking up "the Hill of Forgiveness" and down into Puente La Reina.